It started with a WhatsApp message from my daughter. I was aware that she was collaborating with the tour company, Vero Viaggio, by bringing along 10 followers of Daily Italian Words and that her first trip would take them to Montepulciano, Tuscany in October. The message stated that someone had dropped out at the last minute and had I considered joining. My answer to her question started like this: “I’d love to go but…” which was quickly deleted, then followed by: “I’m coming!” I am now back home and so glad I took the plunge. I am now reliving my amazing week in Tuscany through my diary entries and pictures.
Jean and Ashley at ‘Vero Viaggio’ organised a week of full immersion in Italian culture, Italian cuisine and the Italian language. Language classes were offered from 9 until 1 each day at Il Sasso Italian School, founded in 1983 in the beautiful Medieval and Renaissance hilltop town of Montepulciano, and housed in a former monastery. The school welcomes students of all ages from all over the world.
I was a little nervous going back to school after so many years but there was no need. The teachers are so enthusiastic, knowledgeable and patient. I met interesting people from America, Australia, Austria, the U.K. and Costa Rica.
The accommodation chosen for our Vero Viaggio group was in traditional Tuscan style and located in the town not far from the Palazzo Avignonesi Caffetteria, which supplied us with breakfast every morning. It was also very close to the school. There are some small food shops, a pharmacy, and a larger grocery store in walking distance. These were handy for basic needs like milk, fruit, and so on.
The schedule for our Vero Viaggio group entailed breakfast (included) from 8 – 8:45 ish, Italian classes from 9 until 1, with two breaks, then an excursion with the group starting around 2/2:30. We were left to our own devices Thursday afternoon. We were so fortunate to have sunny, warm weather the whole week which was really lucky for me because I travelled with one small carry on bag and couldn’t pack any rainwear. The landscape with the vineyards, the cypress and olive trees shone in the sun. I was seeing what Leonardo da Vinci saw when he painted those Tuscan hills.
Heather and I walked most of Montepulciano the day after our arrival and before the rest of the group arrived but, on the Monday afternoon, the two hour tour given by Sara – one of the teachers from Il Sasso school – brought the history of the town to life. We explored the Etruscan and Roman depictions and inscriptions on the walls and encountered the clown Pulchinella, striking the bell on the half hour and hour high up on the clock tower.
Our first trip was to Cantina Crociani, a family winery, to taste the ‘Vino Nobile’ wines of the area. The hostess Roberta explained in detail the whole process of developing a good wine, after which we were given samples of a few of them. We weren’t expecting anything else but we were served the Tuscan unsalted bread with their own olive oil. Afterwards, we were given a tour of their 14th century wine cellar. As we descended down the steps, the air was filled with the rich aroma of the large aging wine barrels.
The next afternoon we travelled to the hills of Pienza, to the Cugusi Dairy where they make pecorino cheese, the typical hard cheese of the area, made from sheep’s milk. Their animals graze on herbs on the hills of the Val d’Orcia which gives the cheese its distinctive flavour. We were able to try the various cheeses as they aged starting with a mild pecorino progressing to an aged stagionato cheese. I enjoyed all of them but I preferred the aged pecorino which is very tasty with the unsalted bread.
The day ended with a visit to the Temple of San Biagio, dating back to the 16th century, followed by a scenic walk back to Montepulciano through the cypress trees (i cipressi), taking in the sunset and the beautiful vistas beyond.
A visit to ‘La Foce’, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, overlooking the stunning Val d’Orcia was a highlight of the week for me. The 15th century residence was once a pilgrim’s inn which was purchased by Antonio and Iris Origo in 1924. The Origos were socially conscious. They built houses for their tenant farmers, a school and a clinic and it became a safe haven for orphans and children from the cities being bombed during World War 2. They risked their own lives by sheltering POW escapees and Allied pilots that had been shot down.
Between 1925 and 1939, with the expertise of English Architect Cecil Pinsent, they transformed a virtual wasteland into the world famous gardens that we see today. The garden is a feast for the eye, arranged as geometrical rooms by box hedges. They house rose bushes, pomegranate, cherry, persimmon and lemon trees, lavender and Mediterranean herbs. Pergolas are covered in wisteria. The fragrance in the spring and summer must be intoxicating!
I was so taken with the history that I have ordered one of Iris Origo’s books, ‘War in Val d’Orcia’. She has written several books, one being her autobiography entitled, ‘Images And Shadows: Part Of A Life’, with an afterward by her granddaughter, Katia Lysy.
Not far from La Foce we attended a pasta cooking class where we made pici, a thick kind of spaghetti noodle, spinach and ricotta tortellini and ravioli. It was a messy experience but lots of fun. We ate our creations with a salad, panzanella, that we also prepared. What amazed me was how a little ball of dough put through a pasta machine can be flattened into the long, thin pasta that Heather is holding. Also pictured is my attempt at making spinach/ricotta tortellini.
On my free afternoon on Thursday a few of us visited the Museo Civico Pinacoteca Crociani near the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano, which was used as a filming location for the film ‘Twilight’ and the flag waving ceremony depicted in the film, ‘Under The Tuscan Sun’.
The museum houses many Etruscan and Roman artefacts found in the area and a painting of a gentleman believed to have been painted by Caravaggio. The evening was spent at Enoliteca for an apertivo, watching the sun go down and enjoying a glass or two of the local wines. There are about 100 labels available everyday on a help yourself basis. A rechargeable card is used to dispense your choice of wine. The wine bar is also unique in that it has a glass floor revealing an archaeological site below, which was a little unnerving but fascinating.
Friday seemed to come so very quickly. That morning, our last class, we said our farewells to our teachers and classmates that had become friends over the past week. We received our diplomas; pictures were taken and I joined my group for a tour of Pienza, a Renaissance town named after Pope Pius II. Sara, from the school, once again conducted a very interesting tour. I found it very quaint with its cobbled streets and shops selling products typical to the area. It is famous for its Duomo and the breathtaking views beyond the gardens to the dormant volcano, Monte Amiata, from Palazzo Piccolomini.
About 45 minutes from Montepulciano is the town of Cortona with its Etruscan city wall and many steep alleyways leading from the main street. This is where we spent Saturday, our last full day in Tuscany. It was a warm day but Heather and I decided to walk up to the Basilica of Santa Margherita (Margaret of Cortona) after an informative tour with our guide, Valeria. Morbid curiosity took us up there to see the silver casket containing Margherita’s body. I won’t post the picture.
Cortona is probably best known for its association with the 2003 film, ‘Under The Tuscan Sun’. The market square, the Palazzo Comunale and the Piazza Pescheria feature prominently in the film and the author Frances Mayes still lives in Cortona. I must admit that I didn’t really enjoy the book or the film but it is very popular with many people.
We were driven back to Montepulciano by the wonderful, friendly taxi drivers who drove us around all week and waited patiently for us during our explorations. Then, we had our last supper together and before we knew it, it was time to pack for home.
On Sunday, we said goodbye to an amazing group of people with the hope that we will meet again one day. Vero Viaggio organises many such trips in many different locations in Italy so it is arrivederci per ora and thank you Jean, Ashley and Heather for organising such a memorable experience.
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Heather Broster is a graduate with honours in linguistics from the University of Western Ontario. She is an aspiring polyglot, proficient in English and Italian, as well as Japanese, Welsh, and French to varying degrees of fluency. Originally from Toronto, Heather has resided in various countries, notably Italy for a period of six years. Her primary focus lies in the fields of language acquisition, education, and bilingual instruction.
